Stretching from the Northwest Territories to Montana in the south, flanked by the Rocky Mountains in the west and Saskatchewan in the east, Alberta is a big, beautiful, empty chunk of North America. At 661,188 sq. km (255,291 sq. miles), the province has just 3 million inhabitants.
Culturally, Alberta is a beguiling mix of big-city swagger and affluence and rural Canadian sincerity. Its cities, Calgary and Edmonton, are models of modern civic pride and hospitality; in fact, an anonymous behavioral survey recently named Edmonton Canada's friendliest city.
Early settlers came to Alberta for its wealth of furs; the Hudson's Bay Company established Edmonton House on the North Saskatchewan River in 1795. The Blackfoot, one of the West's most formidable Indian nations, maintained control of the prairies until the 1870s, when the Royal Canadian Mounted Police arrived to enforce the white man's version of law and order. Open-range cattle ranching prospered on the rich grasslands, and agriculture is still the basis of the rural Alberta economy. Vast oil reserves were discovered in the 1960s, introducing a tremendous 40-year boom.
More than half the population lives in Edmonton and Calgary, leaving the rest of the province a tremendous amount of breathing room and unspoiled scenery. The Canadian Rockies rise to the west of the prairies and contain some of the finest mountain scenery on earth. Between them, Banff and Jasper national parks preserve much of this mountain beauty, but vast and equally spectacular regions of the Rockies, as well as portions of the nearby Columbia and Selkirk mountain ranges, are protected by other national and provincial parks.
All this wilderness makes outdoor activity Alberta's greatest draw. Hiking, biking, and pack trips on horseback have long pedigrees in the parks, as does superlative skiing -- the Winter Olympics were held in Calgary in 1988. Outfitters throughout the region offer white-water and float trips on mighty rivers; and calmer pursuits such as fishing and canoeing are also popular.
In addition, some of Canada's finest and most famous hotels are in Alberta. The incredible mountain lodges and châteaux built by early rail entrepreneurs are still in operation, offering unforgettable experiences in luxury and stunning scenery. These grand hotels established a standard of hospitality that's observed by hoteliers across the province. If you want a more rural experience, head to one of Alberta's many guest ranches, where you can saddle up, poke some doggies, and enjoy a steak barbecue.
It's no secret that Alberta contains some of Canada's most compelling scenery and outdoor recreation. Mid-June to August, this is a very busy place; Banff is generally acknowledged to be Canada's single-most-popular destination for foreign travelers. A little planning is essential, especially if you're traveling in summer or have specific destinations or lodgings in mind.
Skiers should know that heavy snowfall closes some mountain roads in winter. However, major passes are maintained and usually remain open. Highways 3, 1, and 16 are open year-round, though it's a good idea to call to check road conditions. You can inquire locally or call Travel Alberta (tel. 800/661-8888; www.travelalberta.com) or the Alberta Motor Association (tel. 403/474-8601; www.ama.ab.ca). If you're a member of AAA or CAA, call their information line (tel. 800/642-3810). Always carry traction devices such as tire chains in your vehicle, plus plenty of warm clothes and a sleeping bag if you're planning winter car travel.
